Much like Piedmont’s Barolos and Barbarescos, Veneto has a top dog when it comes to big red wines. In their case, it’s none other than Amarone!
Amarone
Made from the same grapes as Valpolicella, Amarone (meaning “great bitter one”) is a thick, intense wine made in the Valpolicella region. Unlike the smaller Valpolicella, the grapes for Amarone are not picked during the harvest, rather, they are left there a bit longer to ripen some more. Once they are harvested, they kept in cool, drying rooms for three to four months, so that the flavors may concentrate, and the water in the grapes can slowly leave them. Think of them as becoming little raisins before they’re crushed and fermented.
Lest you think all these sugar-laden grapes mean sweet wine. On the contrary, Amarone is dry and instead uses all the sugar to extend fermentation. This results in a wine that can frequently tip the scales at 15% or more ABV, packing a bigger punch than it’s cousin Valpolicella who averages about 12%. Amarone is typically aged for two years, although riservas can be aged up to four. As you might expect, all this extra work means additional cost. Expect to pay $30+ for a bottle.
Zeni Amarone
When trying to complete this overview of Italy, it has been important to stay as true to form with First Pour Wine’s target of around $10. Amarone obviously poses a massive freaking problem to this, so without further ado, I present the cheapest one I can find, a $30 bottle of Zeni Amarone
Sight: A deep ruby, leaning toward purple with a lighter edge.
Smell: Heavy-handed elements of chocolate and espresso beans wrap their way around raisins and prune. A brighter note leans things out with hints of a green coffee bean and touches of fresh raspberry and strawberry. A certain meatiness lingers around the edges, adding a hint of preserved ham and leather.
Sip: The body is full, deep, and smooth. The notes of chocolate and coffee continue to roll through here, but the distraction of the green coffee note shines through in an unexpected, unwelcome sort of way. Bright cherries and strawberries work as counterpoints to the dark flavors of prune and black plums. The meatiness is somewhat in the background, giving a lingering cigar like smokiness.
Savor: The finish is long, with a good amount of refined tannins, and two minds. A bright green coffee and red fruit finish contrast with a prune and raisin combo that gradually mix with smoky espresso. As the finish goes, the green coffee and deeper smoke notes compete for influence.
Zeni Amarone Della Valpolicella slightly competitive with itself, and it produces a wine that is lesser for it. While there is amazing structure and layering here, what occurs is that the wine ends up being at contrast with itself. The effect leads to a less harmonious experience than the individual parts create. That said, there are wonderful flavors in Zeni Amarone Della Valpolicella if you can get past the greenery.
Verdict: Smoke, Coffee, Green Coffee Bean, Strawberry, Smooth
Rating: 86
Price: $30
Italy
Available At:
