Back in August, I had the fortunate of meeting a representative from Wagner Vineyards at the Wine Bloggers Conference. As I mentioned previously, there’s a lot of wine at the Wine Bloggers Conference [shocker!], and nearly all of it is delicious. Even though I got to sample some of Wagner’s wines during the trip, I felt I couldn’t do them justice in Lodi, California. There was just too much to taste, and not enough time. Not living that far away, the Wagner rep and I coordinated a visit, and I hit the road from Cleveland with my camera in hand in mid-September.
Located in the other Lodi (in the Finger Lakes of New York), Wagner is one of the largest wineries in the region. The Estate broke ground on their winery in 1976, shortly after the passage of the Farm Winery Act. The founder, Bill Wagner, sought to capitalize on the changing of the law with European grapes, including Riesling, which had yet to unlock their full potential in the Finger Lakes. When the uniquely shaped Octagon winery opened in 1979, it quickly became a tourist attraction, not just for the building, but for the incredible wines Wagner Vineyards produced.
The ride out to Wagner Vineyards from Cleveland isn’t that long, but for those that have driven along I-90 next to Lake Erie, you might know how boring it truly is. This long drive gave my traveling companion and I plenty of time to talk about the finer point of dealing with wine as a video medium. These points include such things like, ‘it’s pretty darn boring to watch someone else drink wine’, and that ‘what would be cool is to play a bunch of wine bottles like a xylophone in a bar.’ These sorts of things happen when you’re on your way to an impressive vineyard in the Finger Lakes, staring at lots of nothing.
Pulling up to the Wagner Vineyards was completely different from the ride; sporting a view that simply takes your breath away. Located on the east side of Seneca Lake, the winery overlooks the pristine beauty of upstate New York and several winery neighbors. Two main builds are visible from the parking lot, one housing the winery, while the other is the Ginny Lee Cafe. Our tour guide, Erin, graciously greeted us in the winery, and the tour began.
Being harvest, one of the most amazing things is the sheer number of grapes. Freshly picked and bursting with ripe juice, the grapes sit piled up in their juice, waiting to meet the press. All of this sugar attracts a tremendous number of bees, meaning this is a terrible place to stand if you happen to be the type of person who needs an EpiPen from the wrath of wine loving bees. The bees aside, the processing area to the right of the main entrance is worth wandering over to, if just to visit Wagner’s pond and resident swans.
After the swans, we strolled over to the Ginny Lee Cafe for a bite before our tour of the vineyards. The building is beautifully finished, featuring wood throughout and a gorgeous deck. With a spectacular view overlooking Seneca Lake, it’s not a surprise that the cafe hosts a fair number of weddings. Lunch on the deck was a delicious affair, and the menu featured pairing suggestions for each meal. Much like their wine, the food and service were on point. If you’re planning to visit, aim for the weekend after 10/31, where the Ginny Lee switches from a daily lunch operation, to a weekends only establishment.
After lunch, we headed into the vineyards to meet John Wagner, and view their Harvester. As John explained, Wagner uses both machine harvesting and harvests by hand to produce their wine. From my perspective, the machine harvester is by far the more insanely cool of the two. A hulking monstrosity of a machine, it stands no less than 12 feet tall and is designed to straddle the vines. This allows the harvester pluck the fruit from them, and kick the grapes up into the holding tanks up top. While not as gentle, using the harvester allows Wagner to pick significantly more fruit than if they went through the vines by hand,
Leaving the team to clean out the coolest piece of farm equipment I’ve ever seen, we headed down to the vineyard to watch the harvest in action. While the steep slopes of the vineyard are ideal for drainage, the past year’s dry atmosphere has meant more time spent trying to get enough moisture to the vines for a successful growing season. The harvest looks good despite this, and the workers were busy clipping away.
As we sampled a bottle of their delicious Sparkling Riesling, John opened up into a fount of knowledge about farming grapes. For example (and for those that don’t know), a vine produces its bud for the next season the year prior. This is why a bad freeze can potentially damage or destroy a crop the year before. With John’s significant knowledge, he can take the bud, slice it open, and see what the next year will bring for Wagner. With this critical information in hand, John can better plan what wines to prioritize in the coming vintage.
After an extensive ride around the beautiful (and large) property of Wagner, it was time for the important bit! The wine!
The Wines of Wagner Vineyard
Wagner Vineyards is home to a large selection of wines. 35 to be precise. To say it was the perfect way to spend an afternoon might be an understatement. Being in the cool climate of New York, there are three main expectations for the wines, which Wagner Vineyards does well at for all three.
- Crisp, Fruit Forward, and Aromatic Whites – Varietals like Riesling and Gewürztraminer do extremely well in New York and produce world-class wines.
- Sleek, Red Fruit driven Reds – Expect higher acidity reds to come from the Finger Lakes, making for great food partners. Grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Franc are typical the better bets with Pinot Noir being too finicky, and Cabernet Sauvignon too late to ripen.
- Native American Varietals – Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, and many others are stand outs in New York and Niagara. Something of an acquired taste, these typically lean sweeter and fruitier than their European cousins.
While all of the wines at Wagner Vineyards were good, here are some highlights!
Wagner Vineyards Caywood East Dry Riesling 2014
With a peppy dose of lime and nectarine, the light, floral nature of this Riesling makes it a sweetheart.
Wagner Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2015
Wagner’s Unoaked Chardonnay is a stunner, delivering massive pome fruit and hints of pineapple with a crisp body. A must try for unoaked Chardonnay fans.
Wagner Vineyards Meritage 2012
As we mention in our review, this sleek red is home to plenty of red fruit and oak influence. Blackberries and raspberries freely commingle, and touches of espresso and clove join in. Cherries and currants build over time, becoming predominate flavors.
Wagner Vineyards Riesling Ice 2014
While Niagara On The Lake gets a lot of credit for their Ice Wine, New York is no slouch. Riesling Ice is an explosion of peaches, honey, pineapples, pears, and subtle spices. The incredible sweetness is tempered with beautiful acidity.
Is Wagner Vineyards Worth The Trip?
Fans of crisp white wines, especially Riesling, need to make Wagner Vineyards a destination in their hunt for great wines. Fans of native varietals, sleek red wines, and Ice Wine will also find a lot to love at Wagner. Brides-to-be in the area may want to drop by to check out the fantastic views from the Ginny Lee. Plus, it’s a vineyard, so it’s full of wine.
There are all sorts of reasons why Wagner Vineyards is a great place to visit, but the simplest might be the best. Wagner is worth the visit to see the potential and beauty of Upstate New York, and it’s wines; which Wagner, showcases in spades.
