This week on First Pour Wine, it’s all about cheap, earthy reds.  While states like California and Australia are known for many of their fruity reds, much of Europe still has rustic wines, with deep earthy charm.  These wines channel flavors like mushrooms or forest floor, adding a complexity to the fruity character of the wine.  What we’re not looking for is barnyard, which would imply the part of the barnyard you’re not looking for, poo.  The french are a little more elegant here, referring to it as ‘poulet marde’.

So which way does Grifone Sangiovese lean?

Sight:  A moderate red with a brickish tinge.  Slight transparency.

Smell:  Things are definitely earthy to start, with a huge smack of barnyard.  After the earthiness relaxes, you pick up a good dose of black cherries, currants, and spice.   The nose is rather complex behind the firm beginning.

Sip:  A moderate body with an approachable brightness leads things off.  A hit of earthiness, barnyard, and plum skins gets in the front.  Things get spicier as it builds, and black currants get into the act.

Savor:  The ending gets more black cherries, hints of espresso, and mocha.  The finish is moderately tannic, but builds well.

Grifone Sangiovese is a touch chaotic in its character, and despite the barnyard, is better than the sum of the parts.  In the total view, this is a nice Italian Sangiovese with some beautiful fruit and spices.  On the other side, it doesn’t quite harmonize at the same time, throwing random earthy [notes that go too far], and fruit skins unexpectedly.  The flaws definitively detract, but don’t ruin the experience.  Grifone Sangiovese is definitely worth a try if you like lighter reds, or old world wines thanks to the bright spots and price.

Verdict:  Earth, Black Cherries, Spice, Barnyard
Rating: 72
Price: $6
Puglia, Italy