Throughout the month of January, we’ll be covering the wines of Italy. Today we’re carrying on with Piedmont’s Barbera d’Alba.
Barbera
[This is a recap of yesterday’s article on Barbera d’Asti, feel free to skip it if you’ve already ready it!] While it may sound fierce, Barbera is more of a straightforward and juicy red wine, than a big muscle-bound bruiser. What it may lack in sheer might, it makes up for in vibrancy and flavor. High in acidity, Barbera’s flavors of cherry, blackberry, licorice, and figs end up popping on the palate. Despite the high acidity, these wines are supple, smooth, and mouth-filling.
There are two principle types of Barbera you’re likely to come across in the store; Barbera d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti. What’s the difference? Barbera d’Alba tends to be darker, carrying more flavors of ripe plum and dark cherries, where d’Asti tends more toward being lean, tart, and more concentrated toward red fruit. Again, these are generalizations, not hard and fast rules.
Franco Serra Barbera D’Alba 2013
As we saw yesterday, even Barbera d’Asti can have a pretty good backbone. Hailing from Asti area of Piedmont, Michele Chiarlo Barbera D’Asti’s production is still overseen by its owner and founder. While Barbera has had some rough times in the past, can they show there’s still quality in the cheaper end of Barbera?
Sight: A moderate purple
Smell: A good mix of spicy red plums and raspberries. Touches of preserved cherries and tobacco come together with a bit of espresso and chocolate. A pop of sweetness gets in from time to time.
Sip: The body is full and on the aggressive side of bright. The weight and acidity give it a mild bitterness. Wonderful elements of deep black plums and stewed cherries come together with a bit of fig. Subtle touches of balsamic, spice, and earth join in.
Savor: The ending has a refined structure of tannins that linger for some time. Dark plum comes through with a good earthy spice and dried red fruits.
Franco Serra Barbera d’Alba is a beautifully weighted mix of fresh ripe dark fruit and preserved red fruits. The layering is well constructed and laced with spice. The earthiness and balsamic backbones are well balanced and ready for food. If you like Syrah or Merlot, then Franco Serra Barbera D’Alba is a wonderful place to go for something new and exotic.
Verdict: Concentrated Dark Fruit, Preserved Red Fruits, Fresh, Bright, Spiced
Rating: 90
Price: $15
Italy