Carrying on our coverage of Italy’s Piedmont region is Dolcetto. We started with Barbera in both d’Asti and d’Alba, so check them out!
Dolcetto
Meaning “little sweet”, Dolcetto is has a more spice forward fruity character. The lighter body keeps it easy to drink and is the kind of wine you could enjoy every day. The fruity nature of Dolcetto has a little bit of a bitter chocolate undertone to keep it tempered. Lest you think all Dolcetto is simple and unserious, a few producers make firm, grippy wines with tons of structure and complexity. The best examples from d’Alba and Dogliani, which has the self-proclaimed honor of being the birthplace of Dolcetto.
Boschis Pianezo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2014
With such a proclamation, there should be nothing but high expectations for Boschis Pianezo Dolcetto di Dogliani. Can it deliver on them, though?
Sight: Bright magenta red
Smell: Black currant, black forest cake, and black cherries come together with a slightly bittersweet chocolate note. A touch of earthiness or tar join in, a hint of smoke, and
Sip: Bone dry, with lots of black currant, cherry, and minerality. The bright body is lean, with hints of dried bay leaf, and bright red fruit. There’s an underlying darkness of bittersweet cocoa. The body is light to moderate.
Savor: The ending has stain power, and lasts for an extended duration. Beautiful bits of plum skin and black cherry drive the finish. Notes of spice, smoke, and woodsy notes extend the duration, working off one another. Light tannins persist elegantly in the backdrop.
There’s a ton of depth going on Boschis Pianezzo Dolcetto di Dogliani. The contrast of light and dark is perhaps the strongest, most interesting feature of this wine. It simultaneously bounces back and forth between aggressively bright fruit and lingering dark fruit. The spice and wood notes are incredibly well balanced as well. Boschis Pianezzo Dolcetto di Dogliani shines throughout but blows out the finish in a blaze of glory.
Verdict: Black Currant, Cherry, Dark Chocolate, Earth, Bright
Rating: 88
Price: $10
Piedmont, Italy
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