Welcome to our fourth post in our series on the wines of Portugal. If you want to start at the beginning, head over to Dão, and then click through to the right. Today we’ll be moving west (oeste) from Alentejo to Setúbal!
Setúbal & Lisbon
Setúbal and Lisbon are located on the little bit of Portugal that seems to just out halfway down the coast into the Atlantic. While it might not seem like it, this area actually produces a fairly prodigious quantity of wine, thanks to it’s maritime climate and good soil. The area is therefore a hodgepodge of grapes, many of which can produce good wines for bargain hunters. Perhaps the most famous region, and most well defined though, is Setúbal.
Located between the Tejo river and the Sado, Setúbal is best known for hauntingly aromatic whites made from two types of muscat grapes. These fortified wines, known as Setúbal, are sweet, and made from moscatel de Setúbal, moscatel roxo, and up to 5 other grapes (no more than 30%). The wines are left on their skins for a prolonged period of time (think up to six months!). The resulting wines are dazzling, with wild orange, rich caramels, and pungent wild herbs.
Quick Summary on Setúbal
- Known for: Fortified wine Setúbal
- Best Wine Style: Fortifed, Sweet, White
- Best Varietals: Moscatel, Periquita (Lisbon)
- Notable Producers: J.M. da Fonseca
Adega de Pegões Tinto
Yes, yes, after all that I’m not covering a Setúbal. While it’s a crying shame, it doesn’t mean you can’t find decent wine in the region. Such was the case last family dinner when we enjoyed a spectacular bottle of Confidencial for only $8. Can Adega de Pegões pull off a similar feat?
Sight: A rich ruby color with a deeper brown brick core.
Smell: The nose is a concentrated mix of dark plums that almost prune, blackberries, touches of charcoal, and spice. Hints of raspberries, red cherries, and burnt coffee gradually creep out of the background.
Sip: The body starts with light liveliness and hint of sweetness before gradually reversing course into a heavy weight thanks to an aggressive tannin mix. Deep blackberries, earthy espresso, and smoky cigar notes all get into the mix, and are layered over a rather persistent plum note.
Savor: The ending has some plum and blackberry characteristics, but mainly it punches you in the face with a tremendous amount of tannins.
Adega de Pegões Tinto screams for food, and loudly. As red wine goes, Adega de Pegões Tinto is actually quite well done, and all the flavors work together. While it is simple, it’s also priced accordingly. The tannins are uncouth, but may also refine a bit with age. That said, if you like dark, devastatingly tannic, and tasty wines, then Adega de Pegões Tinto is waiting for you.
Verdict: Blackberry, Black Plum, Tannins, Espresso, Smoke
Rating: 76
Price: $7
Setúbal, Portugal